Street (Food) Fight, Part 9: Pizza, Pizza

I know what you're thinking, "Oh great, another blog about pizza." And I understand, you live in Chicago and you have access to stellar versions of every type of pizza from Roman (I Monelli) and Chicago (Gino's East), to even New Haven (Piece) or the much beloved, if poorly imitated, Neapolitan (Spacca Napoli or La Madia).

We're not here to discuss any of those, however. It wasn't but three short years ago that famed food journalist (and Anthony Bourdain nemesis) Alan Richman made waves by claiming that the best pizza in the world, not just America, but the entire planet could be found at our very own Great Lake Pizza. A bold claim, but an even bolder claim was that the fourth best pizza in the world could be found at Pizzeria Bianco, in Phoenix, Arizona of all places. On a recent trip to my home state I was fortunate enough to make it over to Bianco and had the brilliant idea to compare these two giants of the modern pizza game.

Criteria
Usually when comparing food, I like to keep things similar. However, since both of these pizzerias have such different menus (with only Pizzeria Bianco offering a traditional margherita) I simply picked the most comparable pizzas available, in this case, two onion pies that I wouldn't usually touch with a ten foot pole.

Food

–Wiseguy–

(wood roasted onion, house smoked mozzarella, fennel sausage)

Toppings: Onionphobes like me eat our onions two ways and two ways only: 1. picking them up with chopsticks or pool cues and placing them oh so gently on someone else's plate, or 2. with our mouths if, if they have been well roasted, caramelized or stewed thereby rendering them void of any of their pungent onion flavor. With this in mind, Chris Bianco's wiseguy pie suited me just fine indeed. The boldly smoked mozzerella was the first flavor to crescendo followed shortly by the toothsome finocchiona salami. The roasted onion comes last and despite my deep dwelling aversion to it, was very delicious. 

Crust: PB's crust was rustic, flaky and had an etherial texture to it that called to mind a good loaf of French bread. The flavor was strongly italian and not over oiled (as is the case with most neopolitan pizzas). Like my mother, I have always loved the crust more than the pizza itself and Bianco's crust only reaffirmed that position. 

–3–

(spinach, onion, créme fraiché, dante aged cheese, house made chorizo)

Toppings: Like a good prison Great lake dispenses with smartass labels/proper names and gives their pizzas numerical identifications. In our case the number 3 was pizza topped with thinly sliced onions, fresh spinach and a young sheep's milk cheese from Wisconsin. We added house-made chorizo because we're spicy like that. The onions were graciously mild, the spinach added a warm richness, the cheese was delicate and salty while the chorizo was high quality but you don't need it to make this pizza work. The total effect was spiced, warm and discombobulating. 

Crust: Great lake distinguishes itself from other "artisan" pizzerias (including Pizzeria Bianco) by making its crust game less like Kevin Durant's and more like Shaquille O'Neal's– unapologetically big, but polished with great interview skills. The result is filling but not in the self hating way most of us are familiar with.

Brass Tacks

While I'd be hard pressed to pick one of these places to live with for the rest of my life, I think in the end I'd have to go with Pizzeria Bianco because of its product. It would seem that far away from the immense pizza related pressures and competition of Chicago and the east coast this little slice of heaven has bloomed like a desert flower. Both places use high quality and ingredients and put tremendous love and pride in their pies. The allure of Great Lake is that it's so small and uncompromising that demand and expectations will always be high, and so, hopefully, will be its food. While Bianco's place isn't nearly as exclusive, it's food and atmosphere are equal to, if not higher, than the competition, no matter how far away.

Great Lake

Pizzeria Bianco

Street (Food) Fight: Part 8, Cup Tales

Lester Bangs once said, "nothing ever quite dies, it just comes back in different form." This brings two things immediately to mind: He Who Shall Not Be Named and cupcakes. We can all remember a time when cupcakes were just something the egalitarian moms served at friends' birthdays; cute, quaint, and everybody gets an equal share. I liked them, we all liked them, but I never thought they'd amount to much.

But then, out of nowhere, in New York or maybe LA... something happened. In my personal chronology it started on a fateful lazy Sunday and proceeded to explode across the country at a dizzying rate.

Fastfoward to present times. Cupcake boutiques are considered by many to be staples of contemporary urban dining and shoppes can be found everywhere white people feel safe living. The cost-per-cake has risen to roughly three dollars and the flavors range from vanilla with chocolate frosting to what-ever-the-fuck-you-can-imagine. Are they worth it? Most of the time, yes. Will this cupcake bubble eventually burst? Certainly. But, for now, I have no choice but to put to rest the question of which is best in an epic War of the C-Cakes.

The Criteria

In an unprecedented display of breadth and ambition GBGB has selected four players to take part in this showdown. Each bakery will prove their worth in three categories: One red velvet, one chocolate monstrosity, and one fruit based concoction of my choosing. The red velvet demonstrates technique, quality of ingredients and execution. The chocolate monstrosities (and, yes, I meant to use that word) tell me about the deep dark depths of the c-cake maker's soul, these creations should devastate my palate with richness and tie me in knots with stomachaches. The fruit based c-cakes show off friendliness, a trait which is necessary if the cupcakeries hope to have any staying power. Each category shall be ranked one through four (one being the best) and who ever has the best average ranking at the end will be the winner.

The Players

Molly's Cupcakes- This Lincoln Park c-cake Mecca is my go-to for all things frosted and hand held. When I first envisioned this comparo, I thought of this place and...

Sweet Mandy B's- Arguably Chicago's reigning cupcake king/queen. When people think of Chicago cupcakes, nine times out of ten they think of SMB's.

More Cupcakes- Representing the newish clique of downtown cupcake emporiums, More is the Audi of bakeries: sleek minimalism on the outside, decadent luxury on the inside.

Dinkel's- I had to include an old school Chicago bakery and Dinkel's (since 1922) fits the mold. They are the only bakery in the showdown whose main focus isn't cupcakes.

Velvety Goodness

Sweet Mandy B's overwhelming cutsiewootsiness did not (thank GAWD) extend to their red velvet. It is a very decent rendition in fact with a cream cheese frosting that borders on saline and coats the mouth like a fresh application of primer. The cake was light and airy but was lacking in richness and any outstanding flavors. Cute though, right?

Rank: 4

If the bakers at Dinkel's don't know how to make a red velvet than no one does. Their version of this old stand by is light, whimsical and a touch fruity in taste. The cake had a wonderful give and spring back with ideal moisture (not so light that it wilts under the frosting but not so heavy as to be greasy). The frosting was sweeter than most and had a more viscous texture than I expected.

Rank: 2 (tie)

The relationship between the frosting and cake on Molly's red velvet has the kind of chemistry that you only wish you and your girlfriend/boyfriend/favorite prostitute had. This may have to do with the fact that the obscenely well-put-together girls behind the counter don't frost it till you order it so there's as little cake corruption as possible. The cake is rich, sweet and has almost perfect texture. The frosting is a cream cheese classic; heavy, tangy, and with just enough sugar as to remind you that you're not actually eating cream cheese.

Rank: 2 (tie)

When you first lay eyes on More's red V, you're struck by its stark sleekness and imposingly perfect finish. Then you spot the ornately decorated white chocolate square sticking out the top and your hope is rekindled that these people actually enjoy making cupcakes and would not actually rather be in Copenhagen designing modernist furniture. The pastry itself is dense, smooth, tangy and has enough sweetness to make you happy but not enough to make you sick. The cake is so moist that it actually makes you thirsty (a behavior I still can't figure out). Obviously, I loved it.

Rank: 1

Assorted Fruits

I tried to make berries the theme of my fruity cupcake selections but ran into trouble at Sweet Mandy B's when my options were restricted to Lemon Meringue or Orange Dreamsicle. I went with orange dreamsicle in hopes of it capturing my youthful love of popsicles. What I got was something that tasted like Tang with an extra dose of sugar tossed in for good measure. The frosting was cloyingly sweet, creamy and a very small touch citrusy. The cake was a land mine of artificial orange taste that detonated in my mouth.

Rank: 4

Playing it fast and loose with wacky taste combinations and obscure fruits is not Dinkel's calling card which is why I chose the Strawberry Sophisticake as their fruit entry. The first bite I took brought to mind one word and one word only: heavy.  There's no skimping on butter in this cake, in fact it reminded me slightly of poundcake. Dinkel's strawberry filling reminds me very strongly of Smuckers strawberry jam and I wouldn't be surprised if it was. Topping it all off was a frosting that was very sweet but still light and airy. This is an old school cupcake to a tee.

Rank: 3

More's Vanilla Raspberry Cupcake is a tale of dichotomous existence. On one hand you have a silky, mildly sweet, lightly fruity frosting that, if it were offered in a bowl, I would eat by the spoonful.  On the other hand you have a cake that was a bizarre combination of angelfood and cornbread; very light, crumbly and, it sounds crazy I know, almost corny to the taste. It's a very strange matchup of sublime and slightly off putting elements. Oh, and there's a really nice candied raspberry tasting filling in the middle.

Rank: 2

Trying to contain my excitement for Molly's Mixed Berry cupcake is like asking Yogi Bear to put a leash on his urge to steal pic-a-nic baskets from unsuspecting park visitors. (Warning: what follows is me gushing over a cupcake, feel free to skip to the next entry). In a move that defies logic and the space-time-continuum this cupcake is backbreakingly rich and shining with fresh berry flavor. The frosting is heavenly with a mild blueberry essence. The cake is springy yet wonderfully moist with a lovely crunch on the upper crust. The filling is Spring-fresh, not too jammy sweet and, if you're not expecting it, can actually make you gasp with surprise. This is my favorite cupcake of all time.

Rank: 1

Chocolate Rain

Dinkel's Chocolate Sophisticake changes often, on the day I was there it had a raspberry theme which meant chocolate cake with raspberry filling and pink frosting. The frosting in question was sweet and vanilla flavored and that's all there is to say about that. The cake reminded me of my childhood, specifically the cake my friends' moms baked for their birthdays. The filling was darkly sweet and very thick. Altogether it was a proud and simple cupcake.

Rank: 4

Sweet Mandy B's has a reputation for being a frosting specialist and her Chocolate Buttercream cupcake shows why. The frosting was buttery, dreamy and slightly chocolate flavored. The cake had surprisingly boisterous bitter notes and was rough in overall flavor (not texture, but flavor). Overall the cupcake had a slightly alcoholic chocolate taste with decent moisture. As a bonus they put red, white and blue sprinkles on top so I felt like a real American. Finally!

Rank: 3

More's Chocolate Valrhona cupcake makes an entrance like that guy in that beer commercial. Dark, almost black, in appearance with a shimmering piece of edible gold place in the middle. This cupcake's quality isn't skin deep though, it is a venerable black hole of richness with a, and I can't believe I'm saying this about a cupcake but, long finish. The frosting can best be described as liquid Riesen and marries so well to the rest of the pastry that I had trouble telling where it stopped and the cake began. Speaking of that cake, it was almost flowerless in appearance and deep and dense in taste and texture. The filling was mousse smooth and slightly bitter. This is not a cupcake. It is a sexcake.

Rank: 2

Chocolate Decadence. That is the name of Molly's chocolate cupcake and it is an understatement. The topping is a cacao-triple-threat of dark ganache under a whipped chocolate frosting with chocolate shavings on top just for good measure. The cake is very dark, dense and has excellent cocoa character. The filling an oasis of milk chocolatety lightness. All this combines to make a cupcake that demonstrates multiple levels of chocexcellence. It's dark yet approachable. It's an Edgar Allan Poe story with a Disney ending. 

Rank: 1

Report Card
-With an average rank of 3.66 Sweet Mandy B's placed fourth in our comparison. They may be the cutest, most pasteled environment ever created, and you can tell they put a lot of love in their product. In the end it was just too much sweet and not enough depth and creativity. I have to point out that although their cupcakes weren't the cream of this particular crop, their prices were (as mush as a dollar cheaper than the next guy/gal).

-An average rank of 3.00 means that Dinkel's third place finish makes perfect mathematical sense. Though I just met this bakery I have a profound fondness for it. There's no hipness or chicness or even sweetness to it, it's just good baked goods in an honest Chicago setting.

-More comes in second place with an average ranking of 1.66 in this group. The quality of its stuff is undeniable. Their cupcakes are practically perfect in every way. So why didn't it place first? It came down to the spirit of the cupcake which is inherently playful and there's nothing playful about a piece of laser cut modern art. Delicious, yes. Playful/affable, not so much.

Which means the winner is...

Molly's! with an average score of 1.33 Molly's edged out More for the overall title and bragging rights on this website. Molly's not only churns out delicious and damn near flawless pastries but they do it in a way that is so overwhelmingly pleasant that you find yourself eating more than you should. Although I was more familiar with their goods than the other competitors going into the contest I did not think they would pull out the victory (I had Sweet Mandy B's and More as the favorites), but nevertheless they proved to be the best.




BONUS CUPCAKE:
1. I need to point out that More does a lot more (see what I did there?) than what I asked of them, they've been known to include foie gras, bourbon, and prociutto in their madhat creations and, if their "normal" cupcakes are any indication, I'm betting they're amazing.

2. I ordered a fourth (gasp!) cupcake from Molly's at my friend's urging. The Peach Cobbler cupcake may be the heaviest thing I've ever tried to lift and is face-slappingly good. Cinnamon whipped cream on top with a peach slice, streusel crust directly beneath and a peach compote infused coffee-cake like batter as the base. You Need To Try This Cupcake!

Sweet Mandy B's

Molly's

Dinkel's

More

Street (Food) Fight: Part 7, Taco Tango Redux

After summer took its sweet ass time arriving it is finally time to examine our taco options again. My love for all things south of the border has been well publicized so I don't want to hear any grumbling about how all I talk about is Mexican food because, when you follow your heart, you can't be criticized. Today we examine two bright spots in the Chicago taco galaxy: Big Star and Taco Joint.

Big Star is the humblest creation from the food-savants behind Avec, Blackbird, Publican and The Violet Hour and, from the get-go, it has a been a hit for late-night taco lovers, alcohol enthusiasts, and people averse to credit cards.

Taco Joint is a new tequilería and taquería in Lincoln Park (remember Minnie's? This is Minnie's old spot) that is not only within walking distance of my house but also has a promising menu.

For the comparo I lassoed up three similar tacos (one pork, one fancy meat, and one vegetarian), guacamole and chips and a tasty beverage of my choosing. Each taco is a category and each category is up for grabs, which ever restaurant wins the most categories shall be declared ze winner!

Los Tacos

For what is essentially meat, seasoning and tortilla it can be hard for some to think highly of the humble taco but not me; I unabashedly love tacos and I believe perfection can be found in the form of perfectly cooked ingredients, a good dose of heat, well balanced flavors and a supple yet strong tortilla*.

Puerco

Like so many venerable establishments, Big Star refers to their pork product as Al Pastor which means "of the pasture" if my Spanish serves me. This taco, however, tastes more of beach than field though thanks to the overwhelming presence of pineapple and sweet onion. Frankly, it's too much. The pineapple hits you hard up front and continues to pepper you throughout the bite. The pork shoulder was also over roasted which made it tough to chew.

Taco Joint's pork entry is dubbed Cochinita, meaning "little pig" in Español. This little piggy packed big bad wolf taste in the form of wild onion flavor up front and some serious heat throughout thanks to a sauce based off the infamous habañero pepper (there's a reason they recommend eating this taco last). The flavors were uncluttered and the texture was downright seductive.

Edge: Taco Joint

Veggy

Big Star does a couple veggy tacos depending on when you're there and who's in charge of the menu. On the day I was in they were doing a version called Del Elote and it was a truly lovely taco. It was mesquite-smokey, darkly vegetal, and pleasantly earthy. The main component was slow simmered long beans and everything was tied together nicely with the omnipresent crumbled queso fresco.

Rajas is the name of Taco Joint's vegetarian entry and it relies on a more traditional blend of roasted poblano peppers, creamy tomatillo salsa and a velvety black bean spread. The taco is well conceived and well exectuted. There's crunch when you want it and tenderness when you're feeling sensitive and quiet. The black beans are the delicious blanket upon which this meat-free picnic is set and summer days are perfect for picnicking.

Edge: Big Star

Fancy Meats

Pork belly is no longer an outlier meat. It's now a full fledged member of the Meats-You-Eat-Family, so dishes based off it can no longer skate by on novelty alone but rather must be well prepared and creatively inspired in order to impress. Big Star's Taco de Panza hits the first mark beautifully and the second one pretty darn well. The pork belly is smoky and salty all the right ways and enveloped beautifully in a rich and subtly hot guajillo sauce.

Duck and its own fat combine powers again in Taco Joint's Carnitas taco. This heavy confit-style dish was christened with ancho chile salsa and the traditional combo of cilantro and onion. Taco Joint got funky-fresh and added toasted pumpkin seed to the ensemble and, surprisingly, it wasn't gimmickry but actually added a nice nutty character to the taco. My overall impression of this taco is that it's a bit one note-ish but it's a nice note.

Edge: Big Star

El Guac

First a few notes on guacamole. Though it almost always tastes good, guacamole is often corrupted in the form of adding too much lime, any amount of sour cream, under or over ripe avocados or simply too much salsa. Neither of these restaurants commit any of these crimes near as I can tell, so this comparison comes down to quality of ingredients and, honestly, how happy I was feeling when I ate them.

Big Star's chips and guac was as big as Emiliano Zapata's pride and just about as delicious. There's a general freshness about the 'mole that I really appreciated along with a mild heat thanks to the use of Serrano peppers and, call me Russian, but I thought the sliced radish pieces were a nice touch. Like almost anything, eating chips and guacamole on a patio during what was arguably the most perfectly summery day in history made my experience better but I can't control that and refuse to apologize for it.

Taco Joint, in its endless commitment to variety and confusion, offers four (count 'em!) types of guacamole for your dipping delight. We opted for the tradicional in order to keep the comparison authentic and it proved to be coarse yet creamy and displayed very little additive flavor. Despite using exactly the same ingredients Big Star's guac it was milder in heat and heavier in consistency than its competitor. It must also be noted that three types of chips were served (tortilla (duh!), plantain, and sweet potato) and, in a result that surprised just about everyone, the sweet potato worked the best.

Edge: Big Star

Las Chicas

Drinks, specifically margaritas, were of course ordered at each restaurant. If you must know, yes, more than one drink was consumed but I had to narrow this comparison down to the best of what each place offered and the results follow:

Big Star benefits from being a sister to what is arguably the best cocktail bar in the city (the Violet Hour, in case there was any confusion) and those benefits include but are not limited to: simple presentation, bold yet well balanced ingredients and a commitment to quality over pace. These fine qualities were demonstrated in the Rio Bravo, a blend of muddled strawberry, Mezcal Vida, and I'm not sure what else. It was smooth, light and refreshing which are not typically things I associate with mezcal based cocktails.

Taco Joint likes to brag that they have over seventy tequilas on hand. I like to brag that I still have all twenty fingers and toes despite my lifelong fascination with table saws and unlicensed alligator farms. The point is one of us puts our abundance of awesomeness to good use. In their Grapefruit Margarita, Taco Joint uses Gran Centenario Reposado, Cointreau, chile-infused agave nectar, grapefruit/lime juice and bitters. The result is a complex and wily cocktail that shows off deep smokiness, harsh citrus and a sweet finish, a.k.a. it's kick ass.

Edge: Taco Joint 

(solely based on the balls it takes to put that drink on the menu)

The Verdict

In what came down to a nail-biter of a finish Big Star pulled out a hard fought victory. I doubt many will be surprised by this result. Big Star's blend of fun atmosphere, splendid spirits and relatively low prices have made it a hit but, as I hope this review shows, they are serious about their food as well. Their grub is serious stuff that is often eaten by people like you and me who use it to ward off impending black outs but I say try it sober and it will taste even better!

*A special report on tortillas. Both Big Star and Taco Joint make their tortillas by hand but you may have noticed the bright orange color of the taco joint tacos. This is because the lady making the tortillas that day decided she'd infuse them with guajillo chiles which turned them orange. Sometimes she uses spinach, which makes them green. The point I'm really trying to make is this shit is inconsistent; when it's on it is dynamite and when it's off it tastes store bought and stale. So be aware.

Big Star

Taco Joint

Street (Food) Fight: Part 6, Oh Dough You Didn't!

In these topsy turvy times people turn to two things to sooth their worried minds: comfort food and booze. Here in Chi-tizzle we have Wrigleyville to fulfill the latter part of the equation but the former part is currently up for grabs. For the last five years we've gotten our foodie fixes in the form of pork products, gussied up burgers and premium cupcakes. But change is in the air and that change currently smells like...Doughnuts!

After being neglected for the better part of the decade, Chicago is starting to take these breakfast/cake combos seriously again. A couple gutsy little shoppes have popped up in the last few months so I peddled over to give 'em a proper review.

The Players

1. The Doughnut Vault
The Vault is Gilt Bar's little early-rising sister. Same owners, same address (almost), very different vibe. Just walk up (after waiting between 10 minutes to an hour), tell them what you want and, if they have it, they'll sell you it. There are usually only four or five varieties available and once they're gone they are gone. They have but one drink and that's coffee. In short, they keep it simple. Perhaps it's for this reason that this place has become a "scene," meaning that when I showed up 15 minutes before opening on a Tuesday there was already and line stretching 80 feet from the door.

2. Dirty Betty's
If you've been to Cookie Bar (and you have been to Cookie Bar, right?) then you've been to Dirty Betty's (DB). Only Betty's just does doughnuts, where as Cookie Bar focuses more on... you got it. DB is a brand spanking new concept (like it's 4 days old as this is being written) and is focused on introducing you to wholesome doughnuts you'd be glad to take home to meet your parents (read no trans fats, no hydrogenated oils and no phony bologna flavors or colors). Here's the catch; their doughnuts never touch oil, they are baked (!) rather than deep fried.

The Criteria
I procured four doughnuts and a single cup of coffee (black, no sugar) from each establishment. I tried to get comparable doughnuts; one ol' fashioned type, one chocolate themed and two funky fresh flavors. The winner was decided based on the sum of their scores and not, as some of my critics have insinuated, on how much free shit they gave me.

The Goods  

Funky 1

pomegranate, DB

chestnut, Vault

 DB is serving notice that the pomegranate trend is alive and well and now lives in doughnut form! I only wish the people at DB had turned up the volume on the pom flavor though. As for the chestnut glazed treat, I'm not sure where the Vault hid the chestnut flavor but I couldn't find it as I engulfed this glorified glazed ring.

Edge: DB

Funky 2

gingerbread, Vault

blueberry lemon, DB

 No contest. The gingerbread doughnut, though small in comparison to its gargantuan chocolate and chestnut brethren, was nicely seasoned with cinnamon-sugar and ginger. Couple that with excellent crunch and moisture and what you get is doughnut bliss. The blueberry-lemon was a disappointment in that it tasted very little like blueberry or lemon.

Edge: The Vault

Ol' Fashioned

old fashioned powdered sugar, DB

buttermilk old fashioned, Vault

 I really wanted to like DB's powdered sugar old fashioned but when I bit into it I felt like I was eating a small bundt cake (which I like), not a doughnut (which I love). The Vault's old fashioned was characterized by heavy body, thick frosting and excellent dunkability.

Edge: The Vault

Chocosaurus Rex

chocolate toffee, DB

chocolate frosted, Vault

The epic struggle raged on only this time it was personal, I mean, chocolate. DB's d'nut had a frosting that tasted luxurious and delicious. The Vault's frosting couldn't hold a candle to it but made up a ton of ground in the texture and size department: it melted in my mouth the way a fresh doughnut should and it was HUGE! DB's doughnut had the texture of moist cake but was lacking the contrasting crisp exterior that I yearn for in doughnuts.
Edge: The Vault

Café

-The Vault features local darling Metropolis Coffee (for a buck!), which will always have a special place in my heart as it fueled much of my college existence. Judging from the notes of caramel and cognac, I'd say they're using Schweik's blend whose acidity makes it a great doughnut coffee.

-DB uses Alterra Coffee, a Milwaukee based roaster who doesn't usually branch out into the Chicago area but I guess thought Dirty Betty's would make it worth their while. The coffee was earthy, mild and showed hints of almond. It worked brilliantly with the chocolate doughnut.

Edge: The Vault.

The Verdict

I always root for the underdog but in this case I have to give the title to The Doughnut Vault. Their doughnuts are fresh, substantial and do all the right things in your mouth. If I'm being honest, once I tasted one of the gingerbread stackers I knew it was over. That being said standing outside for 20 minutes for doughnuts is obnoxious and I remember thinking "Is this line here because their stuff is that good? Or is it because they have the hipness factor working for them? Or is it because there's no competition out there?" In the end it's a mix of all of them.

The Consolation

I really like what DB's is trying to do; leave out the trans fat, the artificial flavor and the excess grease of typical doughnut experiences. But baking doughnuts strips them of their doughnuthood and turns them into small cakes. Small cakes are good but they lack the crisp outer edge (I hesitate to use the word crust but you know what I mean) that sets doughnuts apart and magically makes them appropriate for morning consumption. It should also be noted that they are brand new and (if they're like any other small business) still working out the kinks. I'm rooting for them.

Dirty Betty's

The Doughnut Vault